Many of you will be familiar with the Indian head wobble, that multivalent gesture which can mean yes, no, ok, maybe, and many other things in between. I did not know, however, until I reached Delhi that there is a North Indian and a South Indian version of the head wobble. I discovered this upon being told by North Indians that I have a very good South Indian head wobble!
I still have not mastered the Indian use of the word "only." It often comes at the end of sentences. I did, however, finally figure out that "this thing" and "this one" are the equivalent to "you know" in American English, also mainly occurring at the end of sentences. (Malaysians add "la" to the end of their sentences.)
I have to say I kind of got used to being called "madam." I was also introduced to another version of this formality, especially at hotels, in which "Miss" or "Mr." is added in front of your first name. I actually referred to my roommate as "Ms. Hanni" while speaking to the reception desk at one hotel!
Sunday, September 23, 2007
22 September 2007: Homeward Bound
I experienced my only significant flight delay today, which is pretty good considering I had 8 flights in 6 weeks. After sitting on the tarmac for almost 3 hours this morning in KL and the engineering crew trying to fix a hydraulic pump, the captain finally decided that we would have to switch planes (better a late plane than a broken plane, I always say), and that our 9:40 am departure would be rescheduled to 2pm.
So my already long journey of 18 hours expanded to almost 24. I entertained myself on the plane with mindless superhero films such as Superman Returns and the two Fantastic Four movies. Despite how bad Ocean’s 12 was, I decided to give 13 a go, if for no other reason than to be entertained by all the pretty faces on the screen. It was pretty bad, but you can’t really ask much of a film when you’re looking at an 8 inch screen 1 ½ feet in front of your face. I also watched the excellent documentary Scorsese on Scorsese.
I have no words of wisdom to wrap up this sojourn as of right now. Just glad to be home with Karl and my kitties!
So my already long journey of 18 hours expanded to almost 24. I entertained myself on the plane with mindless superhero films such as Superman Returns and the two Fantastic Four movies. Despite how bad Ocean’s 12 was, I decided to give 13 a go, if for no other reason than to be entertained by all the pretty faces on the screen. It was pretty bad, but you can’t really ask much of a film when you’re looking at an 8 inch screen 1 ½ feet in front of your face. I also watched the excellent documentary Scorsese on Scorsese.
I have no words of wisdom to wrap up this sojourn as of right now. Just glad to be home with Karl and my kitties!
21 September 2007: Reunion
Today Chih Pei had a full line up of classes to teach, so I hung out with Elaine, another dancer I met in Bali, and her mother, Ann. They took me by the lovely KL Performing Arts Center (KLPAC), where Elaine and Chih Pei frequently perform. It is a fairly new development of a factory, featuring two theaters, rehearsal studios, a bar, and a prop shop. Kind of reminds me of Redcat in LA.
Then we went to a part of KL called Masjid India, because of both the presence of a number of mosques and of Indian shops and businesses (and also of converted Indian Muslims, called “mamas” in Malaysia). Because it is Ramadan, there were tents set up throughout the neighborhood, like a street fair, selling clothes and head scarves for Muslim women, prayer rugs, etc.
Next we visited the National Arts Culture and Heritage Academy (Akademi Seni Budaya dan Warisan Kebangsaan, ASWARA), where my friends Firdaus and Zainal studied and where Chih Pei teaches. I was very happy to run into Firdaus and Zainal in the halls, and to peek in on a few classes, including a classical Malay dance class that Firdaus was teaching.
Later, we headed over to the popular (and posh) Bangsar neighborhood for snacks and tea (did I mention that Malaysians love to eat?). There we also located some durian fruit for me to try. Elaine was the whole reason I wanted to try it in the first place (she raves about it, her husband won’t allow it in the house), and she knew just where to find it even though the season is past. As we got closer to the market, I noticed a horrible smell, like rotting garbage. Turns out it was the durian fruit! At that point, I wasn’t sure I could go through with my tasting, but I put on a brave face. Evidently the smell of durian is so strong that it is banned from hotels and airports here. It also lasts for days on your hands and breath, so luckily the fruit seller had some plastic gloves for us to don. I did manage to eat a small bit, and got a glimpse of a sweetness, but mostly it tasted strong and almost garlic-y. I thought I’d done pretty well, but a picture tells a thousand words.
Then we went to a part of KL called Masjid India, because of both the presence of a number of mosques and of Indian shops and businesses (and also of converted Indian Muslims, called “mamas” in Malaysia). Because it is Ramadan, there were tents set up throughout the neighborhood, like a street fair, selling clothes and head scarves for Muslim women, prayer rugs, etc.
Next we visited the National Arts Culture and Heritage Academy (Akademi Seni Budaya dan Warisan Kebangsaan, ASWARA), where my friends Firdaus and Zainal studied and where Chih Pei teaches. I was very happy to run into Firdaus and Zainal in the halls, and to peek in on a few classes, including a classical Malay dance class that Firdaus was teaching.
Later, we headed over to the popular (and posh) Bangsar neighborhood for snacks and tea (did I mention that Malaysians love to eat?). There we also located some durian fruit for me to try. Elaine was the whole reason I wanted to try it in the first place (she raves about it, her husband won’t allow it in the house), and she knew just where to find it even though the season is past. As we got closer to the market, I noticed a horrible smell, like rotting garbage. Turns out it was the durian fruit! At that point, I wasn’t sure I could go through with my tasting, but I put on a brave face. Evidently the smell of durian is so strong that it is banned from hotels and airports here. It also lasts for days on your hands and breath, so luckily the fruit seller had some plastic gloves for us to don. I did manage to eat a small bit, and got a glimpse of a sweetness, but mostly it tasted strong and almost garlic-y. I thought I’d done pretty well, but a picture tells a thousand words.
20 September 2007: Petronas Twin Towers
Today we drove into KL again, this time with Jing Wey in tow. We headed straight for the KLCC parking garage, which is located under the Petronas Twin Towers. I thought to myself, as we drove under the bustling office and shopping development, that this could never exist in the US, especially post-911, but even before that I think. The bottom 4 floors or so of the towers are an upscale mall called Suria KLCC. We had a delicious lunch at Madame Kwan’s there. I had flat rice noodles with greens (didn’t realize how much I’d missed them in India!) and egg and some other veggies. To drink, I enjoyed an iced black jelly. For dessert, we split a Malaysian specialty: crushed ice topped with rose syrup sitting over a mixture of red beans, black jelly, and some other items I couldn’t identify. Very cooling and refreshing! Then we went outside for a look at the towers. On the other side of the building is the concert hall for the Petronas Philharmonic Orchestra. As I understand it, Petronas is a private oil company that is connected to the government (owned by a minister, I believe).
Next we drove to the Crafts Complex for a view of traditional Malaysian crafts. By then it was time for Jing Wey’s nap, so we hit the road. We’d planned to stop by the Eye on Malaysia, the brand new ferris wheel which is the largest in Asia. But traffic was really crazy, so we kept on going.
Traffic is evidently especially bad now because it is Ramadan. Malaysia being a Muslim country (about 60%), the majority of people are fasting during daylight hours, so they all leave work around 5:30 in order to be able to pick up some food and be home to eat by the time the sun sets.
Later in the evening, we went out to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant in Klang. Evidently, Chinese veg restaurants (the ones with the fake meat) are usually Taiwanese because Buddhists in Taiwan are veg (compared to Chinese who just try to avoid beef). Afterwards, Chih-Pei’s husband Kee-Keat (“take the candy bar KitKat and remove the first t”) drove around Klang, pointing out areas of interest, including schools he and Chih-Pei attended, the former location of his grandfather’s rubber business, the McDonalds where they had their first date, etc. On the way home, we tried to find some durian fruit for me to try (you either love it or hate it), but alas it is out of season. Instead we picked up some lognan and lonkat fruits.
Next we drove to the Crafts Complex for a view of traditional Malaysian crafts. By then it was time for Jing Wey’s nap, so we hit the road. We’d planned to stop by the Eye on Malaysia, the brand new ferris wheel which is the largest in Asia. But traffic was really crazy, so we kept on going.
Traffic is evidently especially bad now because it is Ramadan. Malaysia being a Muslim country (about 60%), the majority of people are fasting during daylight hours, so they all leave work around 5:30 in order to be able to pick up some food and be home to eat by the time the sun sets.
Later in the evening, we went out to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant in Klang. Evidently, Chinese veg restaurants (the ones with the fake meat) are usually Taiwanese because Buddhists in Taiwan are veg (compared to Chinese who just try to avoid beef). Afterwards, Chih-Pei’s husband Kee-Keat (“take the candy bar KitKat and remove the first t”) drove around Klang, pointing out areas of interest, including schools he and Chih-Pei attended, the former location of his grandfather’s rubber business, the McDonalds where they had their first date, etc. On the way home, we tried to find some durian fruit for me to try (you either love it or hate it), but alas it is out of season. Instead we picked up some lognan and lonkat fruits.
19 September 2007: Klang
Flew a redeye from Bangalore to KL last night, leaving India at 12:30am and arriving Malaysia just after 7am. Only, Malaysia is 2 ½ hours ahead of India, which means the flight was less than 4 hours, giving little time for sleep!
I was met at the airport (very efficient – I zoomed right through immigration and baggage claim) by my friend Chih-Pei, whom I met dancing in Bali. She drove me to her home in Klang, which is an important port city in West Malaysia, and which (depending on traffic) is just a half-hour or 45 minutes from KL. In front of her house she has a lovely water garden, with water lilies and lotus flowers growing in pots. Small fish in the pots eat mosquito larvae, preventing the garden from becoming a mosquito breeding ground and also providing a delightful flash of gold beneath the surface.
I freshened up and then we dropped her son Jing-Wey at preschool before heading to a local morning market. Many of the stalls were closing up shop, so we chose a local restaurant to have our breakfast of noodles and veggies in “curry” soup. Malaysia boasts significant populations of Chinese (who came because Malaysia was a key point in the spice trade between east and west) and Indians (many of whom came when both countries were still British colonies, recruited to work on the rubber plantations), creating some unique fusion foods. We also enjoyed a very cool and refreshing barley drink, and a vegetarian dish called “pigs intestines” (because of the way it used to be rolled, it resembled the innards) made of rice. Chih-Pei’s dance studio where she teaches ballet to children is located right down the block.
Tummies full, we went back to her house so I could take a nap before we ventured into KL in the afternoon. First we went to Jalan Petaling, which is the Chinatown of KL.
The street itself has become quite touristy, even being covered by a structure which reminds me of downtown Las Vegas. Chih-Pei said that locals don’t shop on the street itself, but on the smaller streets surrounding it. In fact, many of the stalls could have been located in any other city, selling knockoff Gucci and Chanel handbags and watches, sunglasses, bootleg DVDs, etc. I did find a watch in the style I’ve been wanting for only 10 Ringit (about $US3). Here we got another delicious cooling drink whose name I’ve forgotten of some winter melon and dried and sweetened longnan. Fruit stands featured many fruits I’d never seen before, or that I’d only had canned, like white and red dragonfruit, and two kinds of rambutan. Other stands feature cool slices of these fruits and I sampled both red and white dragonfruit. Yummy! From Chinatown, we walked over to the Central Market, which features crafts and goods from Malaysia, like batik, wood, and pewter. Finally, we stopped at a restaurant called Old China, which is located in an old laundry building. There I had yet another tasty cooling drink (very important in Malaysia!) of iced lemon tea. Lunch was yellow noodles (mie) with veggies and egg.
Tuesday of next week (the full moon on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar) is a mid-autumn festival, commonly referred to Moon Cake Festival. Throughout the day I got to sample different kinds of Moon Cake, including the traditional lotus, black bean, and jelly.
By this time it was rush hour, and we headed back to Klang, so Chih-Pei could get ready to teach her evening class. I took another nap so I could be rested for dinner at an outdoor Indian market with some of Chih-Pei’s high school friends (more fusion food!).
I was met at the airport (very efficient – I zoomed right through immigration and baggage claim) by my friend Chih-Pei, whom I met dancing in Bali. She drove me to her home in Klang, which is an important port city in West Malaysia, and which (depending on traffic) is just a half-hour or 45 minutes from KL. In front of her house she has a lovely water garden, with water lilies and lotus flowers growing in pots. Small fish in the pots eat mosquito larvae, preventing the garden from becoming a mosquito breeding ground and also providing a delightful flash of gold beneath the surface.
I freshened up and then we dropped her son Jing-Wey at preschool before heading to a local morning market. Many of the stalls were closing up shop, so we chose a local restaurant to have our breakfast of noodles and veggies in “curry” soup. Malaysia boasts significant populations of Chinese (who came because Malaysia was a key point in the spice trade between east and west) and Indians (many of whom came when both countries were still British colonies, recruited to work on the rubber plantations), creating some unique fusion foods. We also enjoyed a very cool and refreshing barley drink, and a vegetarian dish called “pigs intestines” (because of the way it used to be rolled, it resembled the innards) made of rice. Chih-Pei’s dance studio where she teaches ballet to children is located right down the block.
Tummies full, we went back to her house so I could take a nap before we ventured into KL in the afternoon. First we went to Jalan Petaling, which is the Chinatown of KL.
The street itself has become quite touristy, even being covered by a structure which reminds me of downtown Las Vegas. Chih-Pei said that locals don’t shop on the street itself, but on the smaller streets surrounding it. In fact, many of the stalls could have been located in any other city, selling knockoff Gucci and Chanel handbags and watches, sunglasses, bootleg DVDs, etc. I did find a watch in the style I’ve been wanting for only 10 Ringit (about $US3). Here we got another delicious cooling drink whose name I’ve forgotten of some winter melon and dried and sweetened longnan. Fruit stands featured many fruits I’d never seen before, or that I’d only had canned, like white and red dragonfruit, and two kinds of rambutan. Other stands feature cool slices of these fruits and I sampled both red and white dragonfruit. Yummy! From Chinatown, we walked over to the Central Market, which features crafts and goods from Malaysia, like batik, wood, and pewter. Finally, we stopped at a restaurant called Old China, which is located in an old laundry building. There I had yet another tasty cooling drink (very important in Malaysia!) of iced lemon tea. Lunch was yellow noodles (mie) with veggies and egg.
Tuesday of next week (the full moon on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar) is a mid-autumn festival, commonly referred to Moon Cake Festival. Throughout the day I got to sample different kinds of Moon Cake, including the traditional lotus, black bean, and jelly.
By this time it was rush hour, and we headed back to Klang, so Chih-Pei could get ready to teach her evening class. I took another nap so I could be rested for dinner at an outdoor Indian market with some of Chih-Pei’s high school friends (more fusion food!).
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